At first glance the Tokyo subway system is daunting, to say the least. Especially when, as sometimes happens, there is no English map to be found. But if you don't panic, and if you pay attention (who, me?), it is a transportation system to be admired and embraced.

Do you notice what is missing from these photos? Graffiti! The author of my guide book wrote that in 40 years of riding the subways here he only once saw any graffiti, and it was a half inch square of pencil scrawl. You'd be hard pressed to find any dirt, even.